A striking series of portraits of Oscar Wilde taken by Napoléon Sarony served as the starting point for the wardrobe, according to design duo Woo Youngmi and her daughter Katie Chung, though it never veered too far into dandy territory.
The poetry and romance instead came through in the details, like oversized cuffs; subtly eccentric pairings, such as two different heritage checks on the same silhouette, and touches of the artfully disheveled. Poet shirts with double fronts sported detachable ruffles, with a button system allowing them to be worn in different ways. Sweatpants came in a variety of treatments, from black velvet to a fully embroidered floral style.
Ticking off the season’s slouchy, oversized volumes and layering trends, the attitude was laid back but never sloppy. The lining spilling out from the hem of one of the more classic pant styles was turned into a feature, while the house classic, the No.51 coat, was revisited with pintuck details, covered buttons, looser volumes and elongated sleeves.
Pants ran the gamut from velvet flares to soft check corduroys to cuffed trousers recalling loungewear of yore. The palette flushed from classic autumnal tones to pops of Wedgwood blue, port red, emerald and — you guessed it — peacock.