Other than a digital forest lighting concept that was projected onto the runway, evoking shadows of leaves moving in the breeze, the back-to-nature theme came through strongest in the outdoorsy, waxed cotton-like hunter-green elements; the padding; survival-instinct utility pockets, and protective layering.
This felt more like a general stripping back, though, with Yohji Yamamoto — a designer who is openly pessimistic about the world’s state of health — at times paring looks down to borderline plain.
The perforated khaki top recalling military mesh and sheer panels on pants evoking tent windows added depth and air. Some of the cargo pants had flesh-colored mesh inserts that gaped open like wounds.
The highlight of the black-centric show was when the collection zoomed out to a capsule of outerwear pieces in a colored camouflage-like pattern based on photographic prints of aerial views of Planet Earth.
One of the final looks — an elongated waxed hoodie with a stacked triple collar evoking tectonic plates — was also a standout, and would be a great direction to develop for next season.