London-based Chinese designer Yang Li tapped into a glammed-up Gothic aesthetic for fall, taking his inspiration from his passion for underground horror movies and the music of Peter Murphy and Coil.
The rough hems and external seams he has made his trademarks were worked onto items like wool fleece bomber jackets and outsized long wool coats, knitwear with rows of body piercings in the place of buttons, and tailored suits in this largely black collection with touches of deep purple, burnt orange and blood red.
He mixed materials like tweed with canvas or wool, creating what he described as a subverted luxury aesthetic, and added patches with song lyric slogans or B-movie posters to items like an outsize short-sleeve shirtjacket. Leather pants with slit knees were painted with a skeleton motif like a high-end Halloween costume in one of the more outlandish pieces.
While it certainly won’t be to everyone’s taste, his proposition found a delicate balance between edgy and appealingly wearable.