A star of London men’s week, Danish designer Astrid Andersen said she didn’t move in a specific direction this season, describing her collection instead as a “mood board come to life,” with an homage to Eighties London youth culture and the era’s Buffalo collective of artists, models, stylists and musicians.
Her collection was as shiny and bright as a new pound coin but with a tough edge: Puffer jackets glittered with gold piping or zippers while tracksuits were jazzed up with shiny silk jacquard, plaids and checks, and a long, snuggly sweater coat sparkled with silvery threads.
Although it was technically a men’s collection, Andersen also teased some of her fall women’s designs, which will make their debut on Feb. 1 at Copenhagen Fashion Week. The result was a wild gender mash-up with men in kilts and transparent lace tops and women in swooshy silk trousers and shiny, gold and black oversize hoodies.
Somehow, in the space of about 10 minutes, all of it coalesced into a thing of beauty, an ageless, genderless frolic that put a smile on many faces on a cold January night at the Old Selfridges Hotel.