Craig Green channeled all of his little kid energy into this collection where clothes doubled as nomad’s tents, models wore makeshift flying machines and sweaters were patched together from colorful bits of fabric and knitwear.
The designer, who also worked with Grenson on a pair of chunky lace-up shoes inspired by toy soldiers, said he was interested in improvisations and imperfect shapes, clothes that looked as if they’d popped out of a mold, “with bits of other things still stuck inside them.”
Green, who won British men’s designer of the year for the second time at last month’s Fashion Awards in London, is the rare designer who can balance the conceptual with the commercial. Since last year, he’s been selling a selection of signature core pieces alongside the runway ones, which has given him the freedom to play — and he certainly delivered.
He knows that for every man who favors a shirt or a coat with exaggerated pleating here and there, or heavy denim trousers, there’s another who doesn’t mind sweeping into dinner dressed in a geometric patchwork robe like Joseph’s Technicolor dream coat, or a sweater with cutouts and a knitted corset resembling a doily.
Models carrying wooden frames — some with latex stretched across the front, others with swinging pendulums — wore dark denim jeans with extra-wide legs, while others wore fluttery superhero capes over the shoulders of their patchy sweaters.
Green’s imagination is a brimming toy chest and long may he mine it to sail through the desert, fly into battle or zoom to the moon.