Patrick Grant was nostalgic for the Eighties and looked to cultish groups such as punks, mods, rockers and the New Romantics to inform his fall range.
He described the era as “the decade of Thatcher, fat cats and sell-offs, but a decade before drab branded ubiquity had taken over. We bought second-hand clothes. We had no e-mail, no Internet and no mobile phones. We had raves in fields. Essentially, it’s all the good stuff from the last period of divided Britain. This is a sort of a deliberate look at the past period when Britain thought it could never be more divided, which is the Eighties.”
Grant took granddad fabrics such as corduroy and wools and incorporated them into contemporary sportswear separates that could be layered for this luxe and well-constructed collection.
He deliberately clashed his checks in a nod to the latter end of punk: A brown single-breasted checked jacket was worn over a blue checked shirt and dark navy tie and paired with ankle-length blue trousers.
He mixed prints and pattern as seen on a blue herringbone printed overcoat that was layered over a blue blazer, striped shirting and cropped jeans. Silhouettes were loose and drapey in the form of long coats and cowl-neck shirts, while combat trousers were done in a luxury corduroy.
The designer worked with a palette of earthy colors that included browns, rust and soft indigo blues.