“We should be worried about immigration and integration in the same way that we were worried about the Holocaust; it’s the same thing,” Hussein Chalayan told WWD after his fall 2018 show, which was inspired by the Périphérique ring road in Paris, beyond which lies the city’s working class suburbs and the majority of immigrant populations.
Chalayan said the collection — an elegant lineup that segued from outerwear and tailoring to sportswear — symbolized his concerns and represented an “imaginary journey beyond the center of Paris and back again.”
He interpreted this imagined round trip into a loop concept, playing with panels to transform one garment into another or into hybrids, as seen in the opening balmacaan that had a panel that wrapped and folded over one arm, held in place by a single button to give the effect of a cape on one side, a motif riffed on in a bomber and striped shirting.
An abstract jacquard pattern in tones of violet, red, navy and chocolate had evolved from Venn diagrams of Paris city maps, and recalled North African fabrics in a cropped jacket that had a loose-hanging front panel that reached the knees, and a paneled jacket cut low to show a simple shirt beneath.
Chalayan’s core black and white palette was at work in light tailored pieces and in shirts with fluidly draped panels and in nice T-shirts with panels arranged to create a scarf.