The dystopian mood at Kiko Kostadinov has lifted for fall and the Bulgaria-born designer stepped away from his utilitarian uniform, embraced a warmer outlook and debuted his women’s wear capsule.

“It was almost like finding an escape from last season and trying to build something much brighter,” Kostadinov said. “So that is where the women’s comes in and she enlightens him.”

Kostadinov referenced a defunct West German magazine titled “Twen,” as well as the lighter color schemes from Barbet Schroeder’s films “More” and “La Vallée” alongside tones of sea foam green, brown, pink, sky blue, cobalt, bordeaux, emerald and terra-cotta drawn from a Bulgarian pottery palette.

Injecting more color this season lifted his lineup, which was filled with separates that had more relaxed silhouettes and took their cue from outdoor sporting garments.

The designer experimented with a new silhouette for his man and cinched the waistline on trousers or cycling shorts. He cropped a white athletic jacket and paired it with sky blue trousers which were nipped at the waist. This struck the right balance of cool without being costume. Slouchy knitwear came reversible or in a multicolored jacquard and he made his triple-darted trousers a bit roomier. Elsewhere there were some elements of his utilitarian aesthetic as he injected a few looks with workwear-inspired shapes.

For women’s wear, there were separates, dresses and a coat — some with Fifties shapes — that were done up in soft shades or earthy tones. As a nod to nature, some female models donned elaborate headpieces comprised of baby’s breath, berries and flowers crafted by Katsuya Kamo — who works with Junya Watanabe.

Kostadinov teamed with Asics for another collaboration and infused panels of knitted jacquard on sneakers and partnered with Camper footwear and revamped its Teix hiking boot.

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