Martine Rose is marking a decade in design with a collection of key pieces from past collections that looked fresh again.
“We drew from my archive because there were some early pieces that I really loved. It’s like a crazy mix and it’s really fun.” The designer, who also consults for the Balenciaga men’s collection, described this season’s man as “everyman,” and she’s dressing him in tailored clothing and denim, sexy garments and more formal pieces.
The British men’s wear designer skipped her London Fashion Week Men’s runway outing earlier this month to show her fall range in a look book format. Rose has always been about curating a wardrobe rather than creating looks. This season’s collection included a fall 2014 fur coat; fall 2018 beer towel sweaters and ring shirts from fall 2016.
She revamped the long faux-fur coat — an ode to ravers — as a more a glamorous piece that was worn over a blue checked shirt and snakeskin printed trousers. She also played with beer towels in a nod to Jamaican dance halls where men would wipe their sweat from dancing. She putting her logo on them in the form of a patchwork done on trousers and paired with an enlarged men’s wear blazer.
Rose also concentrated on fabric development. She treated leather with washes — one in black and red, another in black and blue — for an oversize motorcycle jacket that was worn with camouflage jeans with patches at the knees.
Rose employed a palette of almond, pastel purple, lime green and sand alongside classic checks and stripes in blues and dark greens.