This high-energy show was filled with luscious fabrics — velvet, corduroy and nubby wool check — whipped into slim-fitting workwear shapes that looked just as good on the women as they did on the men.
He was thinking about Bryan Ferry and the early Seventies, a “very louche, very relaxed and intrinsically rock ‘n’ roll” time, said Spencer, adding that it reminded him of today. “There was a lot of political uncertainty like there is now, and out of that creativity comes.”
The show opened with a lineup of models striding fast down the runway to the beat of Ferry’s “Love Is the Drug” and wearing luxury separates: Velvet trousers — some rolled at the ankle; slim, tailored corduroy jackets, or loose turtlenecks in navy or rust with contrasting rectangles at the front.
Suits were laid-back and came with checked wool jackets that had patch pockets and elasticized waists. Other, bomber-style jackets were done in soft, toffee-colored leather, while long and slim checked wool toppers had fur-trimmed hoods.
The palette was full of comforting Seventies earth tones such as light olive, saffron, chamomile, cream and navy, and the show also marked the first time that Spencer used female models — Jade Parfitt and Daisy Lowe, and Catherine Hayward, fashion director at Esquire in the U.K. — all strode down his catwalk.
Although Spencer doesn’t design women’s wear, he said he’s been selling clothing to women for a long time, and the ladies looked snazzy in their cool velvet suits and heels.