The loose layering and easy lines of streetwear are hogging the men’s wear conversation, and so it should be Giorgio Armani’s moment — yet again. Instead, the designer, whose name has long been synonymous with soft tailoring, workwear shapes and slouchy pieces, turned his back on all that with a collection filled with shrunken silhouettes, some as tight as bandage wrappings.
Suit jackets had narrow shoulders, cropped sleeves and buttons that strained across some models’ chests, while trousers came with carrot bottoms or little, turned-up cuffs. There was clearly a no-pasta memo sent out to models the day before the show — otherwise how could they wiggle into those suits, some of which were done in a lovely midnight blue velvet or gray wool?
Outerwear — thankfully — was spared the shrink cycle, and came in lovely drapes and loose layers, or structured and luxe. The three black sheepskin coats at the start of the show were shiny and lush with the right dose of swagger, while shearling jackets were fluid with floppy lapels, and more structured ones had big furry cuffs.
A dark blue military style coat cinched with a leather belt was sharp, too, while a dark blue velvet topcoat had a whiff of bohemia — and all the softness once synonymous with Armani.