An officer and a gentleman could have been the title of the collection, with Giorgio Armani sampling the style and elegance of officers and outdoor adventurers of yore — often transforming the attitude of a garment with the help of an extra few buttons.
Case in point: A handsome navy, double-breasted coat with eight buttons and leather patches at the shoulder to give a military feel, a bit like an officer’s peacoat, that featured among the more modern interpretations.
More classic double-breasted suits — the leading tailored clothing trend of this fall season — fitted at the waist, with the same eight buttons, figured among more slick versions, more like a banker’s suit.
The large, curly, shearling coats conjured Forties aviators and old snow troopers, with among other key looks a gray wool bomber with matching cargo pants tucked into high combat boots.
The structured jackets had a softness to them while staying very masculine. But velvet was the main news, used in different weights and textures ranging from moleskin-like fabrics on pants to rumpled crushed velvet surfaces with a hint of shine and a velvet dévoré camo that was not so palatable.
It proved a great color vehicle, with a deep ruby shining out from among the spectrums of grays and midnight blues. In the dinner section, the designer updated tuxes with draped velvet shawl collars, enhancing the collection’s military-dandy undertones.