“It’s my declaration of love to Milan and the city’s younger generations,” said Massimo Giorgetti whose casting, for his wardrobe based around an imaginary democratic university, the University of Causality, was based on real students from the city’s universities.
The aim, said the designer, was to stay true to “real guy silhouettes — not too skinny, not too oversized, very effortless.” Some items sported graffiti slogans lifted from walls, tables and bathrooms of the universities.
The collection skewed a little more bon-ton than usual whilst losing none of its playfulness, representing a large spectrum of tribes, from arty types to nerds to a minimalist take on the Italian stallion pairing a pink satin shirt with stonewash denim in a trackpant cut with a high elasticated drawstring waist.
A look layering a shiny black puffer over a red sweater and white hoodie added an Eighties techno lilt, while the shorts with map anorak, chunky hiking boots and trucker cap were pure Nineties.
There was a strong schoolboy flavor, with nods to American or English uniforms, but also a workwear vibe in the boiler suits, matching total looks and the brown and mustard basics.
In the hippy camp were the chunky printed fleeces and cardigans in motifs echoing folky sweater motifs and Patagonia-style patterns.
With sweaters tied across the body and the waist, it made for an uplifting, cute show with the designer nailing that student way of accumulating clothes and layering.