“I prefer the word ‘pure’ over ‘minimalism,’ which is so cold,” said Sabato Russo, who this season infused some color – shades of gray, camel and a shot of bordeaux — into his aesthetic, which is based on the fusion of traditions of southern Italy — where he is based — and the East, where he lived in Japan for years.

Like the name Sartorial Monk suggests, a lot of the unisex collection was based on pared-down, zen, fluid silhouettes in natural fabrics, such as robes in liquid velvet, a wool and cashmere coat with collar and cuffs in fur, and roomy wool kimono coats.

The tailoring section was more directional, with a range of Eastern silhouettes, including shrunken workwear shapes and loose pajama volumes, revisited through Neapolitan tailoring techniques, with plays on mixing materials on one suit, though in sober tones.

Dévoré shirts and dresses in a monochrome snakeskin-like pattern — modeled by special guest Violeta Sanchez — added some energy, and worked best used as accents on pretty crushed velvet dresses.

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