Main Message: Each season Ryohei Kawanishi aims to dissect a specific style of men’s wear. In the past, his themes have been more streetwear leaning — he’s brought his own spin to workwear, Nineties hip-hop and reggae — but for his fifth collection he went with punk. Kawanishi admitted that it’s an overused reference, but he wanted to make it feel fresh. He showed Tartan plaid anoraks, corduroy suits in bright colors, angora, color-blocked sweaters and other knits styled with rhinestone bras. He collaborated with Alpha Industries on a bomber and matching pants made from dead stock materials and partnered with Blackmeans on the studded leather jackets. Kawanishi showed Doc Martens that were drawn over with Air Force 1 details.
The Result: The collection provided some strong moments — the corduroy suits were a highlight — but it would be nice to see Kawanishi dig deeper into previous ideas he’s played with and establish a more consistent brand DNA.