Martin Andersson, the former creative director at COS, who now has two Theory men’s collections under his belt, tasked his team with taking advantage of Fast Retailing’s Innovation Center in the Meatpacking District. Andersson wanted them to think up new fabrics and construction methods that brought technical details to the collection. He also pulled from the last year he’s spent living in New York and artist Ellsworth Kelly’s graphic work.
This resulted in a minimal collection of blazers made from nylon stretch that were laser cut and bonded with seam tape, ponte knit trousers, a lightweight puffer coat that looked like a shirt jacket, and nubby, color-blocked knits. Andersson brought sustainability into the line with a wool suit that’s a part of their Good Wool program, which features pieces constructed with yarn from a New Zealand farm and manufactured in a more environment-friendly way. He added a textural interest with leather and shearling outerwear in addition to high-pile bomber jackets and sweaters.
The palette was somber but impactful ranging from a deep camel, maroon and mustard to stone, white and cobalt blue.
Although many men’s wear designers are attempting to infuse technical attributes into regular sportswear, Andersson managed to do this while still maintaining the integrity and aesthetic of Theory. He pushed it forward, too.