In his first true men’s runway show under his own brand, Tom Ford set the bar high with an old-school nostalgic moment that was reminiscent of his glory days at the houses of Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent.
The opening look, a white cropped shearling jacket with matching turtleneck over skinny snakeskin pants and boots, set the tone for Ford’s ultrasophisticated globe-trotting man.
The tailoring, which has long been the brand’s most defining category, felt refined — and precious at times, especially in a shiny all-pink single-breasted slim-cut suit that was head-turning.
But the bulk of the collection was devoted to Ford’s growing sportswear assortment, which had a much younger and citified vibe. Lush hoodies under sleek bombers and fitted sweatpants were an example of the designer’s ability to blend luxury sportswear and traditional tailoring.
An eveningwear segment had a Seventies feel with the use of sequins and shiny smoking jackets that will undoubtedly walk down a red carpet soon. Oscars anyone?
The much-anticipated reveal of Ford’s underwear collection closed the show, with bare-chested models sporting silk and cotton boxers in solids and animal prints. And if one paid close attention, the models also unveiled the new watch assortment.
Interestingly, the collection was devoid of overt logos, streetwear references or repurposed thrift-store finds — all of which were everywhere in Europe this season and on many New York Fashion Week: Men’s runways this week. The collection was luxe to the max, but also breath of fresh air. Thank you, Mr. Ford.