13 Bonaparte continues to develop its vocabulary of architecturally inclined contemporary men’s wear in its non-seasonal Collection 12. Founder David Sarfati, who cites luminaries such as Oscar Niemeyer as influences, said his lineups are envisioned as midseason ranges dotted with outlying seasonal items. For winter, those would be a generous navy double-breasted coat or a long silhouette in all-over dark gray pinstripe.

Rather than positioning the brand within the elevated utility and sports movement, the driving impression for fall was of a uniform fit for gallery owners and art critics. Neutral tones of black, greys and olive abounded in this very monochromatic iteration, standing alongside vibrant yellow — a hue being touted as “Gen Z Yellow,” soon to supersede Millennial pink.

But being seasonless didn’t isolate the collection from of-the-moment notions like revisiting normal clothing, or expanding on the capsule of women’s wear explored in Le Denim. Unlike others tapping into men’s wear for women slipstream, Sarfati acknowledged this small but keen segment of his clientele would be served through a compact denim offering that included skirts — a crafty mini that looked like jeans legs reassembled — or even dresses, as well as the expected adapted men’s wear, but that there were no plans to spin it off further.

The brand will be opening a three-month pop-up within Printemps, which will also feature a selection of Eighties furniture by the likes of Pellegalli or Philippe Starck curated by specialist antiquarians Remix Gallery, as a way to expose the cultural underpinnings of the label. This will run from Jan. 25 to April 25 in the department store’s Haussmann men’s wear department.

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