Not so long ago, Boris Bidjan Saberi was sending Goth looks down the runway with a strong urban and military vibe — think “Mad Max” — that then morphed into a more intrepid explorer-type take. Now, for fall, he’s gone sporty.
This season, the German designer seemed to channel snowboarders and the lifestyle associated with them. The collection’s opening look was a head-turner: a long white-and-beige shearling coat with three-quarter sleeves and high collar accessorized with arm-length black gloves and snow boots.
It’s not to say that Bidjan Saberi didn’t stick to his signature layering, mixing of volumes and strappy details — all still to strong effect. But they were shaken up with his new concept of outerwear, including black or muted violet down vests.
In a similar cocooning vein was a novelty piece — a turtleneck-cum-cape that enveloped the body to the ankles.
While at times quirky, this collection built on Bidjan Saberi’s comfort zone while showing it’s more extensive than originally thought.