“It was important to show who the Brioni man is today, to come quite near to these personalities and to feel it,” said Nina-Maria Nitsche at the house’s presentation, where a series of installations presented a cross-generational cast of “real” men from across the global to embody the Brioni universe, photographed at their homes in pieces from the collection.
“It’s not about a nationality or a kind of physique. It’s deeper than that, it’s a man who is independent, who is not influenced by trends, he has his own opinion about things,” said Nitsche, who worked within the classic tailoring framework of the house, tweaking fits and elevating fabrics on a series of updated sartorial archetypes. “For me, coming to a house with such a big history, you have to respect this history and evolve it,” said Nitsche, herself dressed in Brioni. The designer said she sees “big potential, in the future, to evolve in the women’s direction.”
The presentation’s casting included Johan, a vinyl records collector; Brian Jackson, a novelist based in New York, and Austrian model and stuntman Werner Schreyer.
The latter, for example, was captured in his quirky London residence: sitting in his bath, a pajama tuxedo with a feather-embroidered fringed silk scarf hanging on the door; in his kitchen in a chunky yet superlight cashmere cable-knit cardigan coat, and in a blue polka dot shirt and cashmere denim jacket with horn buttons.
Enhancing the experience, items from their homes — a rug, say, or a sculpture — had been imported for the event, with sound effects from their homes, like a dog barking or the sound of the sea.
Highlights included a double-faced tweed and cotton twill car coat, a tailored jersey suit, a multi-pocketed travel jacket based on an archive piece, a mismatched three-piece suit with subtle variations of the same pattern on the pants, jacket and vest, and a series of dinner jackets in “fake black” that when seen from close up were actually a deep brown or bottle green.
Not forgetting the most precious piece in the collection: an alligator vest, an over-the-top luxury piece but here worn under a sports coat.
Also showcased were two items demonstrating the “limitless” possibilities of the house’s bespoke service, crafted from antique Japanese tapestries in need of restoring. Nitsche breathed new life into the pieces by transforming them into a dinner jacket and a robe.