Jason Basmajian reined in the silhouettes this season, sending out a collection of tailored pieces that gently relayed a message of back-to-work.
The designer cast a wide net in the inspiration department, citing post-punk, military and streetwear looks as influences but managed to bring them together, partly through a series of cinched waists that recurred throughout the collection.
Trousers were slimmed down, while the waists rose higher. Belts were knotted, most of them, creating pleats in the back — on a fleece-lined bomber jacket, a lengthy puffer coat in black and shiny brown overcoats in waxed leather. Pouch belts also played a role in the belt-tightening exercise.
The logo made a few appearances, running neatly across the front of a plum top in one instance.
Working the soft autumn hues in khaki, plum, mustard and black, Basmajian also sent a graphic, Bauhaus-style motif down the runway, pairing jackets in the rich fabric with cropped pants.
The show’s looser side came in the form of oversized coats in various check motifs, a nod to the Eighties, as the label continues its push to bring the swinging Nino Cerruti aesthetic to a new generation.