The collection had a superfresh, electric energy, with Rei Kawakubo assembling a patchwork of ideas on layered-up silhouettes pairing patterned jackets and voluminous shorts in a quilt-like wadding material.
Thrown into the pot were comic book prints, brick wall prints, camouflage, terrazzo motifs evoking fragments of stones and a dotty print recalling aboriginal art. Enhancing the primitive vibe were the padded white cotton dinosaur headpieces — think T. Rex skulls and more — by Shimoda Masakatsu.
But maybe, trying to get one’s head around Kawakubo’s cryptic world, the main theme was child’s play, with each model sporting the same wig — center parting and a low ponytail — sometimes dipped in candy shades.
The tailoring was asymmetric with off-kilter proportions and curved openings at the back, like hospital gowns or art class aprons, which continued with the stiff, bright-white engineered grid jackets that gave a high-tech, robotic spin.
The fluid pastel pants resembling silky tracksuit bottoms were sweet, as were the double-breasted white shearling coats.
Footwear collaborations came courtesy of Nike and George Cox.
A final run of silhouettes in a morphing black-and-white geometric print brought a fragmented quality that accentuated the collection’s overall edgy, computerized, cartoonish feel.