“It’s more of a complete message. It’s important for us to be in Paris, to have the exposure and the audience,” said Dunhill creative director Mark Weston, who looked at brand references and advertising from the late Seventies and early Eighties. He lauded the period because “guys really cherished wearing clothes.”
Through that retro lens, the designer put the house codes like leather and masculinity front and center. He remained faithful to the tailoring essence of the brand while injecting a relaxed sporty attitude.
This was a wardrobe for the kind of guy who can confidently pull off a tracksuit top with a suit, or a tuxedo but worn with a sneaker.
Fine blue lines added an athletic edge to a tracksuit top in a gray tailoring cloth. Hanging at the shoulders, a handsome mustard coat — its gold blazer buttons dangling like cuff links — was paired with baggy navy pants and sneakers. Another look mixed an oversize single-button navy jacket, shirt and tie with leather pants cut with a slight boot cut, and leather boots with a stacked heel.
Weston proved a daring colorist, mixing oxblood with mustard, navy and gray, and he also experimented with different textures. Consider the glossy puffer jackets with narrow, vertical channels recalling vintage leather car interiors. As groovy as all that sounds, it was tempered by Weston’s streamlined, clean sensibility.