The location set the tone for the show — a splendidly raw and empty building, with exposed pipes and a dusty concrete smell. The theme was “underground,” and out crawled its population — a cool, calm and collected bunch, according to their clothes.
The sweater returned from last year’s collection but as an outlier this time — and at more rational proportions. In safety orange — a recurring color — the chunky turtleneck for men was paired with a thick, matching scarf and trim, black trousers. Dark olive dominated the collection, which also included gray, camel and silver, as well as the label’s signature electric navy blue.
Cord and climbing hooks, used as belts, suggested the wearers were engaged in something more than normal city living. So did the ski mask, cast as a fashion accessory and certainly non-threatening, thanks to the colors — soft gray with an orange panel mirrored by a patch on the arm of a camel overcoat.
An elegant olive cargo pant was made for women — the pockets in front, at the bottom. Electric blue served as the background for plaid fabrics: a slim-fitting knit turtleneck and matching trousers for the women, and, equally attractive, a suit with a matching knit top for men.
Not shy of logos, the brand slapped The New York Times onto the arm of an olive bomber jacket and across the back of a loose, black overcoat. “A global voice for daily current affairs and politics” read the show notes. Fritz the cat was the star of a comic strip shirt — that naughty Robert Crumb character, also from New York.
One might describe the collection as stylish utilitarian, both self-assured and very wearable indeed. Altogether too tame for Fritz, no doubt.