Hiromichi Ochiai’s fourth collection shown in Paris was “the most Facetasm show we have done, it shows our identity more,” he explained through an interpreter. Dubbed “Emotion,” his designs for men and women referenced the strong feelings we have as children that we tend to hide as adults, the show notes said. As such, they combined elements of charm with a colorful, streetwise edge.

Outsized outerwear — cue brightly hued teddy-bear coats, which definitely evoked childhood feelings, and a selection of bombers and leather numbers — was paired with severely creased fabrics and layer upon asymmetric layer of pleated fabric, especially on the looks worn by female models.

There were plenty of streetwear references, entering the mix for example through baseball shirt and varsity jacket details. In certain looks, these echoed oriental traditions when done in wool, a key element of the collection this season thanks to the designer’s collaboration with Woolmark. What looked at first glance to be denim, in fact was actually created using washed wool worked to maintain allover crinkles for an original take on the fabric.

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