For his first solo season after former codesigner (and brother) Florentin Glémarec left Icosae for other pursuits, Valentin Glémarec infused the brand’s fall collection with a megadose of sporty streetwear. (Shakespearean references of past seasons be gone.)
From deconstructed bombers and sweatshirts to a modern twist on suiting and sartorial coats, the designer channeled the zeitgeist of Millennials, who bend to their own idols.
Glémarec said for this season’s inspiration he thought about “the new gods in our modern society. It’s a postulate on the fact that the new gods today are singers, artists.” So to paint an apt portrait of current-day youth, he turned to the street.
Among the standout looks this season was a slightly punked-up military jacket overlaying a sharp suit jacket atop a graphic T-shirt, paired with sporty black trousers. There was also a military-style fitted ribbed sweater — all very much of today.
Another first came in the form of the Christian Louboutin-designed accessories, such as headbands and caps, and sneakers sent down the runway. “We took sneakers and reworked them in fishnet,” said Glémarec.