Technical but cozy was one of the key directions for Lucie and Luke Meier’s debut men’s effort for the house, presented as a softer, more positive and human spin on futurism, hooked on the kinds of pieces one might really want to wear when in need of a bit of cocooning while vacating planet Earth.
“It’s this idea of going into space, but not abandoning your rituals,” said Lucie, with Luke quipping: “Like, halfway there you might want a nice cup of coffee.”
The design duo gravitated to the white cotton duvet coats — also revisited in a technical organza — with matching horizontal messenger bags that could double as a pillow slung across.
For the shapes, the designers wanted enveloping, swaddling, bigger volumes “but for it to be controlled.” Neat details included fully molded aluminum buttons.
The protectionist spirit was in keeping with the times, but it was the more down-to-Earth pieces that worked best, like the classic topcoats with rounded shoulders and detachable fur hoods, a white mac edged with a thick silver leather tape on the lining to hold the construction, textured but minimal outerwear and a simple black suit with graphic white contrast topstitching.
A plain, old school, single-breasted gray suit layered over a tonal nylon gray shirt was pure Jil Sander, a piece that nodded to the technical explosion of the Nineties but felt very now. No need to go to the moon to be modern.