Lucas Ossendrijver, in one of his strongest collections yet, embraced the season’s protectionist spirit for his turn navigating the Lanvin ship, with the fate of the beleaguered house still hanging in the air.
Tumbling tailoring and activewear references, the designer layered utilitarian padded vests and ponchos over coats and suits in a range of classic, striped gray cool wool suiting fabrics.
Cool roomy multimedia parkas sported the word “Someday” at the back.
There were elegant plays on plaids and checks in a characteristic mish-mash of ideas, with Ossendrijver injecting strong staple pieces into the mix, like a stunning double-breasted camel coat.
An anorak snapped open with a shearling lining peeling back was ultra cozy with a technical blend. Ditto for the great oversize cream sleeveless anoraks layered over suits in tonal colors.
Channeling Nineties street was a look pairing a high-waisted brown pant and beige vest over a graphic T-shirt with super large boxy sleeves, accessorized with a collapsed knitted bucket hat.
Head turners in this resume-building collection, which married utility and modernity with tradition, included the knits, tilted to the side.
The layered silhouettes looked “real” but up close were highly detailed and precisely designed, and that’s one of the defining features of Ossendrijver’s work: His ability to transcend reality.