In somewhat of a departure, Kirk Millar and Sam Linder have decided to divide their talents, with Millar designing the label’s men’s collection and Linder the women’s, from now on.
As such, the inherently personal nature of the label’s fall collection made sense, as Millar sought to explore the frustrations of his journey growing up gay and demonstrate his passion for dressing men.
He played on outer toughness and inner sensitivity, like Peer Gynt peeling his onion, layering rugged yet fluid military shapes in a nude color palette and contrasting them with pastel hues and pops of brightness.
Running through the collection was a patchwork print of pages from homosexual writers like Jean Genet. This was used as the lining of a denim coat, worn with a removable soft pink shearling gilet and collar, or as an allover print on a bomber jacket and shirt. Standouts included a lilac leather jacket with batwing sleeves, pink sheepskin collar and brown piping details that was simultaneously daring and poetic.
The softer looks were contrasted with boxy corduroy tops in fluorescent yellow or pink with military pocket details, or with a loud and proud print featuring the male gender symbol.
This semiology was also translated on the accessories, which included a leather tie belt with a male electric plug at each end and a pair of yellow and khaki faux crocodile moccasins — a reference to Genet’s lover, it would seem — featuring a gender symbol tag.