This was the house’s first men’s collection under John Galliano — and it showed. The designer added his dose of cinematic fantasy — plastic overlayers and matching aviators figured among the styling tricks — to the Maison Margiela men’s wardrobe.
Introducing Artisanal pieces to the line, he put his own stamp on the relaxed suit, reinterpreted in a bias cut.
The designer stuck close to house codes with hybrid spins on the classic trenchcoat, the oversized fits and signature tailoring with large square shoulders — revisited in a more classic cut, albeit in a peacock fluid blue satin.
He sent out a couple of classic pinstripe suiting shapes: one big and boxy with a frayed hem, the other like a classic banker suit but with a boxy shoulder.
Things took a crafty turn in a run of Mackintoshes reduced to vertical bands using a décortiqué technique, exposing underlayers in contrast fabrics like knits. The same skeletal structure was later echoed in fur on an oversized yellow bomber, giving a harness effect. Shadows crept across a flocked navy bomber, while an orange rubber cardigan in an Aran knit motif that quivered down the runway was pure showpiece.
Footwear included the new Security Margiela Sneaker — or SMS — and the house’s bestseller Tabi boot.
The collection also had its fair share of commercial pieces, like the sharply cut plain beige suit worn with patent leather cowboy boots, which was supercool, and a slim red nylon sports jacket tucked into pants like a shirt.
It was a solid first attempt both in terms of bringing the collection in line with the women’s and in infusing more of a madcap mood, but there’s still room for Galliano to perfect the balance between his own sensibility and the Margiela way for men.