Polish label MISBHV’s take on Nineties underground club culture is clearly aligned with the “fuggly” mood of the moment, with a gauche appeal plus an Eastern European undercurrent that makes it just that little bit different.

The pants were worn slim and straight, contrasting with the streetwear shapes of sweats and T-shirts. High-waisted jeans were adorned with a strip of rubber paint down the side, an example of the importance of graphic design in MISBHV’s proposition. Another of these came by way of a printed silk short-sleeved shirt inspired by Jean Arp.

A green mohair plaid coat was one of the highlights, and was right on trend, although it was slightly incongruous with the rest of the lineup but that may have been the point. Bombers made from technical fabric in murky variations of fluorescent shades were given shirt-style collars, dressing them up a little, and embroidered logos on the back.

There was a great black shearling bomber — the brand makes practically all its products in Poland, and the country’s shearling, it seems, is particularly good quality. Leather, meanwhile, came in various shapes and styles. But as a striped patchwork hybrid somewhere between motorcycle gear and track pants, it unfortunately failed to gel.