Befitting Nïuku’s position as a trendy brand — thanks in part to its presence among the 2017 ANDAM finalists — the scene at its first show on the Paris men’s wear schedule was wild, with guests crushing to get into the brand’s show space.

Exits identifying as men’s wear came at a rapid fire pace, worn on boys and girls alike. The premise was not exactly novel, but was done with gusto. “Unisex is no longer a question today, as new generations just pick up items they like regardless of who it was for. For us, ‘unisex’ is not a concept, it’s being part of our time,” said Lenny Guerrier after the show.

As expected, the trio formed by Guerrier, Kadiata “Kadjahdjah” Nïuku Diallo and Riad Trabelsi spiked the current Nineties sportswear vibe with men’s tailoring inspirations lifted across the 20th century. Coats, be they wide wale corduroy or green boiled wool with raw edges, looked solid but staid, as did retooled nylon shell suits, courtesy of their sponsor Reebok.

Jackets with their lapels looped over the shoulder as scarves, a baby pink shell suit sliced under the arms to form looser skin-baring sleeves, or a partially unzipped bomber dropped backward in a faux crop stood out for their universal — and on-trend — appeal.

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