Pierre Mahéo is sticking to his guns. “I don’t need and don’t want mass,” he insisted in his show notes — a candid letter addressed to friends. He’s not having any of that forced-inspiration business either.
So the designer delivered a soothing lineup of his mainstay: smart, contemporary and handsome, easing his audience into a comfortable spot on a cold and dripping Sunday morning.
Outerwear came in layers. For the women: a thin, checked trench hung over a thicker, double-breasted coat in blue, of the same length, just below the knees — paired with a tight miniskirt and bare legs. A suit coat poked out from under a beige bomber jacket for men. The jackets also came in a lush dark olive and pale gray that leaned toward periwinkle — faithful to his color scheme, Mahéo tinkered with the hues and canceled the stitching on the sleeves. The label also focused on fabrics, studying the weave of vintage American military clothing from the Sixties and commissioning Japanese mills to make them.
Prints were notably absent but not for want of trying. “I tried really hard, but there was nothing that really caught my eyes,” explained Mahéo, with his trademark sincerity. The result was a clean, palette-cleansing show, a reprieve from fashion week excesses.
A 10-year-old sat in the front row. “It’s a fashion show suitable for kids,” offered his father, as the boy yawned, snug in a black puffer coat.