Sankuanz’s Shangguan Zhe circles around a vision of post-apocalyptic survivalism, an attitude that resonates with today’s ubiquitous utilitarianism in men’s wear. For fall, the focus was on technical fabrics — 3M reflective panels, Cordura — to express the idea of an urban struggle. Wardrobe choices swung between toughened performance gear and high-tech hobo — think goth Action Man meets a bottom-rung Scraps rebel right out of Demolition Man. “It’s about figuring out what to do for your life, fighting for your life, and to figure out the physical obstacles and everything that may overwhelm you,” Zhe said through a translator after the show, as models posed against a stylized dark city. If anything, this followed a blueprint for dystopian dressing and was in step with a global mood, but with any distinctive features chipped away.