“I wanted to go back to where it all started. I wanted to tell how the tailoring in the beginning was sportswear, and the sportswear was always tailoring,” Thom Browne said.
The master storyteller transported guests to a fantasy winter wonderland, with a playful après-ski vibe to the collection.
The main storyline was the outerwear and the bright white down-filled sportswear that appeared to harness all the know-how Browne accumulated during his time as the creative head of Moncler Gamme Bleu.
The designer sent out riffs on golden oldies with layered tricolor tartan silhouettes, a look pairing pinstripe suits with long pinstripe puffers, total-look tailored knitted suits in wintry snowflake ski-sweater motifs — some integrating dachshunds, in a nod to his pooch Hector — and a boyish ensemble layering a long knitted gray coat over a cropped knitted jacket and thick mohair shorts — all in different shades of gray.
In the mix were tailored tricolor capes, a fluffy white cashmere coat and a dapper quilted cotton jacket in a navy chalk-stripe. Down suits sported quilted surfaces recalling cricket-whites leg guards, with tricolor rings at the knees and elbows to accentuate the articulation of the garments.
A lot of fabric research went into the collection, with a high-tech down, and a black lace suit and a dicky bow.
All the models sported high-blush cheeks, long braids and gray Wee Willie Winkie hats. Throughout the show, guys in long johns climbed into a row of camp beds, slipping on gray eye-masks and drifting off to dreamland under sleeping bags decorated with that symbol of where it all started: the gray suit.