Walter Van Beirendonck’s fashion has always referenced fetishism, but this season, he wove it more deftly into his collection full of boxy silhouettes, making it of the moment in more ways than one.
The Belgian designer stripped out most of the past cartoon-y elements, focusing instead on the square shapes and style mash-ups he’s so masterful at creating.
Take as an example the well-cut, cube-like shearling coat featuring pinned-down sleeves paired with deconstructed leggings — both with more than a wink to bondage. The black leather jacket with lapels worn over a sporty, multicolored bodysuit gave an elevated ath-leisure effect.
Van Beirendonck was particularly strong with outerwear such as raincoats, bombers and sartorial jackets for fall. He also clearly celebrated subcultures, with details like earred hoods and black chokers.