Yang Li presented the final chapter of a trilogy on cinematic villain archetypes, starring the gambler. Found in the back alleys of Macau or Hong Kong rather than glittering waterfront properties, his shady high-rollers had a brittle elegance, donning satin shirts and fraying formalwear.

Mustard yellow — odds were commercially long, but paid off — faded florals, green — the palette was dissonant and rich, in an effort to replicate the full-on effect of these establishments. Cunning cuts — most visible on a black-and-white jacket — and bold details of raw edges, embroidered card suits, or scarf loops reinforced the visual cues and delivered Li’s characterization just so.

Ballistic bomber-blazer hybrids displayed their tartan patterns through the holes of the technical material; hands rolling a dice were repeated on a silk shirt and scarves, but were a frame by frame capture, and a faux nylon-fleece shearling was cut in such generous shapes that you could hide another person, never mind a simple pack of cards.

What had been cashed in was his “men’s wear for women” sub-category. Moving forward, pre-fall will be a separate entity and thematically unrelated to men’s. Expect slipdresses with lace, a delicate dévoré fabric mimicking a microprint and a return to the shirt with sleeve buckles, which has appeared before in Li’s vocabulary, and will feature heavily come March.

By  on January 22, 2018

Yang Li presented the final chapter of a trilogy on cinematic villain archetypes, starring the gambler. Found in the back alleys of Macau or Hong Kong rather than glittering waterfront properties, his shady high-rollers had a brittle elegance, donning satin shirts and fraying formalwear.

Mustard yellow — odds were commercially long, but paid off — faded florals, green — the palette was dissonant and rich, in an effort to replicate the full-on effect of these establishments. Cunning cuts — most visible on a black-and-white jacket — and bold details of raw edges, embroidered card suits, or scarf loops reinforced the visual cues and delivered Li’s characterization just so.

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