The force of the Yohji Yamamoto collection lay in the masterful mix of tailoring and flou, spinning the fluidity of a skirt or dress on looks whilst keeping a masculine feel.
The storyline moved between samurai-inspired and monastic silhouettes, at times à la “Matrix.”
Yamamoto even put himself into the collection with an image of his face embroidered with a glittery tear surfacing on an asymmetric blazer-topcoat hybrid, set against a collage design with graphic lettering that added a touch of romance.
The sleeve constructions were striking, as on jackets with the contrast shiny leather with ruched accents at the shoulder as if they’d been transplanted onto the garment. A look revisited in a rock, blood-red snakeskin version with matching shoes.
The designer’s love of construction and deconstruction took flight in a run of white elongated coats patched with black shapes that gave a graphic punch.
With John Lennon’s “Imagine” as the soundtrack, the show demonstrated once more Yamamoto’s ability to create new emotion while celebrating his heritage.