Glenn Martens confirmed his position at the forefront of the reinventors of fashion, using deconstructed, reconstructed configurations to create new clothing propositions.
It felt a little less dressy than last season, with the designer taking outerwear and thrift-store-style basics like bleached denim, ski sweaters, lumberjack shirts and even a simple T-shirt and warping the patterns and volumes and blurring the fits.
It was sometimes hard to tell where one thing ended and the other began, with clothes seemingly attached on hybrid looks, forming a whole.
On one look he took a classic Baracuta-style jacket, flipped it inside out and used it as a layer under a chic oversized topcoat, its tartan lining spewing.
Martens also revisited the business suit, with a superbig shoulder and double shirt.
The designer also supersized the denim trucker jacket, but also the season’s hero product, the Ugg boot, which came reconfigured as a staggered thigh-high boot — much like the brand’s signature denim, only more squidgy in allure. Some styles sported a buildup of white wooly cuff sections; others focused on an expanse of tan skin, like wrinkled pug’s fur.
The clean jeans with a slightly skewed panel layer were also superfresh.