Naming its collection “Roots,” Aldo Maria Camillo, one of Pitti Uomo’s guest designers this season, set the tone for his debuting show, staged at Florence’s Stazione Leopolda. As he revealed in his show notes, the Nineties and their minimalism served as inspiration for the designer, who delivered a commercially savvy collection centered on well-executed men’s staples. Memories of Camillo’s youth converged in his fashion aesthetic, where a sharp-cut leather coat matched with white pants seemed to be a tribute to Helmut Lang. Suits and coats were juxtaposed with leather trousers, simple striped T-shirts, shearling jackets and leopard print pants to create a wardrobe echoing references to iconic music and movie stars, such as James Dean, Kurt Cobain and Bob Dylan. While he walked on the safe side, Camillo demonstrated to have great design and merchandising skills. Adding a bit more of excitement and individual vision might be the goal for his next effort.

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