With its candy wrapper transparencies, delicate ruching and dreamy prints on the back of long coats, this poetic collection was another win for Green, who has returned to London after showing as the guest designer at Pitti Uomo in June.
One of this city’s great talents, Green is playing on another level from his fellow designers. The collection he showed Monday, with its references to ancient and medieval costume and sophisticated knit and fabric work, was transporting, directional — and whimsical.
Held in the brick vaults of Old Billingsgate, London’s former fish market on the Thames, the show was a salute to the sensitive man and to different ways of dressing across centuries and cultures.
“I was thinking about a man made of glass, and that idea of fragility and how emotion doesn’t mean weakness. It can also mean strength. It was lots of ideas of tradition and craft, too, and there was knitwear in every single look in some way or another,” said the designer, adding that he wanted his fall outing to be “somewhere between sportswear, tailoring and surgical wear.”
Those aspirations translated into looks ranging from the languid and spare to the structured and textural: An array of cotton trenches in primary colors with fluttering straps and drawstrings led to a lineup of djellabas done in plaids and checks, some of which had little slashed cutouts.
Green interspersed those djellabas with long hooded coats that had plain fronts and lavishly printed backs. One print resembled a toile de jouy, while another featured a cartoonish hippie gal with long flowing hair. Among the long and languid looks was a top-and-trouser ensemble with long, slashed sleeves and dramatic flourishes of fishnet and crochet.
Structure came in the form of tops made from padding and fishnet that recalled chest armor. It also came as all the ruching and elasticized details on a series of fluttery, plastic winged ensembles in colors as light and bright as candy wrappers.