Lada Komarova drew on her childhood growing up in Soviet Russia, mining memories of summers spent in the countryside dacha and recollections of life in Moscow.
She recalled seeing people arriving in Moscow from small towns to seek work in the big smoke, swiftly adjusting their bumpkin attire to more urban standards, throwing a tailored jacket over a homespun sweater, say, or seeing too-short trousers expose woolly socks and military boots.
“It was a time of mixed emotions,” Komarova told WWD. “Of feeling incredibly oppressed by society but at the same time feeling incredibly important because you’re not just living for yourself but you’re a part of something big; you really felt a part of a big community.”
This translated into some interesting ideas, combining classically gauche suburban wear from Komarova’s childhood with more contemporary urban codes. For instance, a brown tweed blazer that saw the lapel wrap around like a collar and fasten on the other side of the neck, a typical working-class style, with truncated black jeans that fastened at the ankle with buttons.
Also interesting was a sharply tailored black half-tuxedo jacket, with a collar that morphed into a strap on one side, leaving one side of the chest and an arm bare, which was worn with matching trousers tucked into army boots. Sounds odd but over a knit or T-shirt, on the right guy, it would look cool.
Elsewhere a little floral dress, nipped at the waist with a nylon panel and drawstring, hinted at those dacha days, and clever tailoring saw the hem of one jacket folded up and fastened by a suspender clip into a sling-type apparatus. For when holding the vodka gets too onerous, perhaps?