Design duo Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto told their fall 2019 story, through the lens of an obsessive, insomniac predator.
“We were fully focused on this one kind of man and this idea of him staring at the ceiling at night,” said Marchetto, pointing to the mattresses that hang on the walls of the brand’s presentation space. “We wanted to tilt the room and look from above.”
It made for a niche but compelling narrative.
The obsessive quality of this character they constructed, pushed the designers to deliver a carefully edited range filled with standout patterns, luxe fabrics and complex structures — the kind that you would find in the wardrobe of a man who “knows everything about himself.”
There were slim tailored suits in abstract jacquard fabrics — inspired by the look of mattresses over time — smart double-breasted coats layered over printed tracksuits and oversize parkas featuring layered panels or cartoonish prints, taken from Sixties soft porn magazines.
The duo also played with contrasts, layering feminine crinkled organza shirts under classic, argyle-knit vests or adding a more formal feel to tracksuits with corseted tops, reflecting the overall move away from sportswear that’s been happening across the London catwalks.
“Sportswear is the wrong word for us. The brand is a fusion of our respective Italian and English heritage. I bring a lot of the tailoring background and Jordan brings this urban warrior feel that’s missing in Italy,” Marchetto added.