Kiko Kostadinov looked to the works of celebrated Hollywood costume designer Irene Lentz for his fall 2019 outing, particularly her skillful use of stripes and the feverish glamour of Doris Day in “Midnight Lace,” the 1960 film in which Day plays an American newlywed in London, convinced she’s being stalked.
Kostadinov took that unsettling stating point and turned it into a beautiful collection that made much of his tailoring skills, in striped suiting precisely cut on the bias and outerwear that played with women’s wear codes in a wholly masculine way, resulting in an accomplished take on transgressive glamour.
There was plenty of drama, not just in the stringy black wigs that covered the models’ faces (a nod to his other cinematic reference, the terrifying Japanese horror film “Ring”), the chunky jewels looped over those, the moody soundtrack and the funereal black drapes that decorated the set, but also in the many great coat options.
Kostadinov said now that his final collection for Mackintosh, which showed last June, is out of the way, he was free to experiment with outerwear. “This was the time that I’d been waiting for, to do my own outerwear,” he told WWD. “It felt really good to go big on the shapes and have more silhouettes.”
Among the standout looks were a swing coat and a cape in aubergine, both worn with polite deb-era gloves, the furry green-black coat with lovely curved pocket flaps, and a little bolero on emerald nylon — part of a collaboration with Asics — that was worn over a jade wool bomber, trousers cut from gray and jade wool, and a cummerbund wrap at the waist.