If Nicholas Daley’s fall collection was to be presented in Venn diagram format, it would be at the intersection where dub (a musical genre that evolved from Sixties reggae) overlaps post-punk music. An incongruous pairing, sure, but Daley is a pro at intermingling cultural references.
This season, his fourth as part of the BFC’s NewGen sponsorship scheme, he paid homage to renowned producer Lee Scratch Perry, a pioneer in the Seventies development of dub music, by calling his collection “Black Ark” in honor of Perry’s Jamaican studio. Daley also worked closely with British music producer Dennis Bovell, who brought dub sounds to post-punk bands like Maximum Joy.
“It’s about this moment when reggae and post-punk and punk music was intertwining,” Daley told WWD. “I looked at what Seventies post-punk bands like The Slits and P.I.L. were wearing, as well as what was being worn by the people who produced their music.”
The resulting collection showed a concise vision in a palette of camel, navy, taupe, denim blue and burgundy, combining heritage fabrics like an oversized plaid, developed with Scottish mill Lovat, with stiff denim and some lovely knitwear.
The opening look best summed up Daley’s concept: a collarless striped T in olive, red and yellow, topped with an indigo denim waistcoat and a suave camel car coat, and worn with a roomy pair of smokey red and green check pants.
Other standouts included a marvelously chunky scarf knitted on an oversized shirt coat in blue plaid and the yellow and black oversized plaid mohair shirt jacket.