Per Götesson is growing up and looking to marry the simplicity of his Swedish heritage and the nostalgic, makeshift approach that has defined his brand so far with more sophisticated techniques of constructing garments and a more complex approach that’s representative of his new London life.
At times, Götesson held on to his younger self, with the ultra-skinny jeans, ripped T-shirts and glass brooches that have been making regular appearances on his runway.
But elsewhere, the up-and-coming designer explored different territory with elegant tailored looks that came oversize and featured subtle, playful touches, such as longer panels on the front of pants.
They were created alongside a Savile Row tailor, who challenged Götesson to think in a more structured way.
“I’m very interested in trying new techniques. The way I work is very much loose and expressive, I guess, but here we were talking a lot more about structure and that really enlightened me,” said the designer.
Draping made for another area of experimentation for Götesson. He partnered with digital pattern maker Kathy McGee to create a series of draped bomber jackets. They were made out of body scans that were then used to create patterns of digital draping.
The different strands of the collections were a little disjointed – much like the background music during the show – but Götesson’s experiment with craft, new and old, has legs and can take him in many an interesting direction if he keeps exploring.