Exploring the wonders of the Brioni production facility and its material resources, Norbert Stumpfl feels like a kid in a candy store since taking up the creative reins at the Kering-owned house.
“The level of manufacturing and the fabrics, which are just divine. I’ve worked in luxury before at Paris houses but this is a complete other level, I’m getting goosebumps,” said the soft-spoken designer at his first presentation for the house.
He nonetheless kept the exuberance in check, with a lot of the surprises on the inside. A classic gray jacket sported a patterned lining, with the idea of subtle flashes of color and texture when in movement. A featherweight black double-faced trenchcoat had a tan cashmere interior with stripe accents that extended onto a section of the lapels for graphic effect.
Precious details included a band of chocolate crocodile at the nape of a cigar-hued military coat and on the back of its belt, while a technical field jacket was leather-lined to give a superluxe spin.
Despite the rich content, everything was easy and light, from a coat in a cashmere jersey down to a completely unlined suit in Japanese wool seersucker, representing half the weight — 340 grams — of a typical jacket, so more like wearing a shirt.
“I wanted to make it less formal, the whole look, with this idea of wearing a luxurious garment but being able to forget about it and get on with life,” said Stumpfl who presented only two suits, including a slimmer silhouette with all the hallmark hand treatments like hand-sewn buttonholes.
Color came through in the evening section, where the options ranged from a lovely cotton-silk velvet jacket in a gleaming rusty shade, worn over a knitted evening shirt with the feel of a T-shirt, to a super formal frock coat.