Dutch label Forcerepublik — one founder of which is DJ Sunnery James, the other half of Doutzen Kroes — is one to watch in the burgeoning luxe streetwear market, even if the collection, presented to a thumping set in a clublike space in the outskirts of Milan, was hard to see.

The line was rich in textures and exquisite, tactile, artisanal developments, going from a 3-D checked shirt in an exclusive alpaca, cashmere and wool mix to scraggy black hoodies in an irregular knit; wool-cashmere sweaters produced on vintage machines, and cloud cashmere scarves.

For the trek home at dawn, the supersized coats included styles padded with biodegradable raw Scottish wool and others cut from dense, matte, reversible shearling and shaggy Icelandic lamb, the latter worn over a Japanese tailored suit cut with seamless kimono sleeves, giving a sweatshirt feel.

All the pants were in machine-washable, stretch, bubblegum leather. Sparkling with iridescent metal threads, exposing the occasional golden rip, the Japanese denim also caught the eye.

That and the Icelandic furs spilled over to the women’s pre-fall lineup, which had a strong Eighties vibe, from the washable high-waist bubble-gum leather pants to the logo print blouses and cropped jackets in French plongé leather.

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