The designer is in tune with the sustainable mood of the moment, quoting fellow British designer Vivienne Westwood’s mantra of buying less and making it last, and working with chopped and patchworked old military uniforms for both the men’s and women’s collections.
Men’s had a military feel, with lots of nylon jackets, dark zippered trousers and a suite of lovely military jackets done with a colored sequin chinoiserie on the back, while his zipper-adorned denim was made in a Turkish factory that relies on lasers for cutting, and has reduced its water waste.
While the men’s skewed toward the utilitarian, women’s was a little more glam – Richmond said he wanted to conjure the Eighties London of when he started his brand, when girls used to dress up to go to clubs. The result was a lineup of short dresses – some patterned, some sparkly – with pointed statement shoulders or big bows at the front. Other dresses were hybrids, made from military jackets spliced with embellished skirts.
In both collections, the military-inspired, sparkly looks were the strongest, standing out in a sea of monotones and pretty standard street styles.