The characters of an Andrea Pazienza comic book and Eighties subcultures came to life in this fun Milan debut for Luca Magliano since winning “Who Is on Next?,” the talent search promoted by AltaRoma with the support of Vogue Italia, in 2017.
With Magliano exaggerating proportions, the personages went from mafioso types in fake fur coats and socks or piano shirts and broad-shoulder double-breasted pin-striped suits to guys in shrunken sailor silhouettes with grommet details on the pants. The more merch-friendly acts included a school kid dressed in tailored gray denim and a mustard-colored sweater embroidered with leather lozenges streaming with threads, who shuffled down the runway in slippers.
Billowing white satin shirts were anchored by collages depicting a community of faces by artist Klaus Jürgen Schmidt, who walked in the show.
For the finale, a wheeler-dealer type flashed open his coat to reveal pockets loaded with cheap jewelry and watches.
Magliano backstage dedicated it to the “small-town boys” from his hometown of Bologna. “In the Eighties, Bologna was a laboratory of subculture, of political awareness, fertile soil for the gay community that was starting to manifest itself in a supercamp crazy way, and this collection is all about that,” he said.